Wine Tasting, Vineyards, in France

Paris des Sens tasting

Overview of two of the tasting rooms (there were three)

 

Paris, 20th arrondissement
There are always some tastings restarting at that time of the year, generally on mondays like here for professional events, I was tipped about this one otherwise I'd have missed it, this was the second edition of it, Le Paris des Sens being a Paris-based distributor of artisan, biodynamic and natural wines who set up now every year a tasting with their winegrowers so that their buyers can get a feel of the available (or soon-to-be) cuvées (their IG page here). There were a large number of vignerons (see the names below) in this tasting on january 16, many working on a small vineyard surface.

The other nice thing here was the location for the tasting : Caché (means hidden in French) is a restaurant which is indeed hidden in a remote corner of the 20th arrondissement, along a dead-end cobblestone street (Villa Riberolle, villa being another French word for impasse or dead-end street) lined with former workshops next to the Père Lachaise cemetery (but there's no entrance to the cemetary on this side). so unsuspecting visitors can't stumble upon this place by chance). Caché restaurant was founded by two Italians (Lorenza Lenzi and Gianpaolo Polverino) focused on delicate cuisine including seafood. Part of the tasting also took place at Amagat next door, a restaurant sharing the same philosophy but with Spanish (Catalogna) roots.
Pic on left : entering villa Riberolle from the rue de Bagnolet. The restaurant is toward the end on the left. The trees in the far are the Père Lachaise beyond a wall.

La Goulayance 2022

The crowd

Paris, 12th arrondissement,
This was another beautiful edition of La Goulayance, and it took place again in the premises of Ground Countrol, this vibrant venue set in a former railway locomotive workshop, I can't but encourage you to visit the place, have a drink, read books, play games, whatever this place offers which is pretty diverse, and families are welcome. Entry fee was 10 €, you were given a glass which you could keep after tasting the exciting natural wines of many vintners, who were present of course to chat with visitors and buyers. You could buy cases of wines or individual bottles on the site, that was also the good thing, direct from the producers. The vintn,ers took also time to walk around and taste their colleagues/friends' wines of course and I'm sure that's also what brought many of them here. I didn't taste many of them alas, having to ride my bike back to the Aube in the afternoon, possibly before dark (and the tasting on both days was starting at 12, not the usual 10, that's the low point).

Rôti de Porc pairing

Easy cooking

This is autumn and we're in the middle of troubled times with rising prices including for everything related to food, but there's still room for indulging in tasty meat dishes like the one I'm going to tell you about. Energy is also getting a subject we're getting told to worry, and good cooking often often needs to be long. You know I've been a longtime fan of everything off-the-grid and these days are the good time to experiment in this direction if you're still on the mainstream consumer side : all you need is a good old stove upon which you can sit a pan or a pot.

A few images from the end of harvest 2022

Harvest scene at Julien Prevel

Cher valley, Loire
I managed to get in time in my Loire hideout just in time for the last days of harvest and toured a few producers, some by myself and some with Lexie Jordan who was at the time picking with Julien Prevel. Lexie is living in Paris mostly and she imports wine for her San Francisco-based company Funk De Funk (actually in Mill Valley, Marin county). Several producers had in fact already just finished picking, some still had a couple parcels yet to be picked, for which they were waiting for a bit more maturity. This story will be most a picture story, first because I/we visited unannounced (in some instances there was no body near the chai/cellar and we'd just move and try our luck elsewhere) and our hosts were busy or enjoying quietness at last after several weeks of stress, and also because the end of harvest is just, like, relax, take your time and pause...
This took place around the 3rd week of september, I know, this is late to post that (even with backdating it) but I keep being busy these days.

Hoop Wines (Mátra, Hungary)

Zoltán Németi & Zoltán Kerekes

Gyöngyöspata, Mátra (Hungary)
This was really a quick visit here, we're here at Hoop Wines which is run by two childhood friends, Zoltán Németi and Zoltán Kerekes who make wine from a small overall surface 1,5 hectare, plus from the equivalent of 0,5 hectare of purchased grapes, for a total yearly production of 5 to 6000 bottles. We're here in a family house in the village that was refurbished as a small winery facility by Zoltán Kerekes who had himself a 10-year experience working in a local winery. Zoltán Németi is himself an IT specialist in Budapest and spends his weekends here for this venture.
This small facility has all the hygiene requirements needed for a safe winemaking, mostly there's the main room which we could call the chai (they press inside), and a barrel room on the side which does the job of a cellar. Asked if they got European funding for these investments, they say no, the conditions for these subsidies are difficult to gather and unfortunately they are designed mostly for big wineries, so they funded this by themselves. They're happy to have this facility which is now easy to clean and keep clean, something essential for thoughtful winemaking. Their first commercial vintage was in 2019 (before it was more like experimental and for themselves and friends).

Mátyás Páger (Mátra)

Mátyás Páger in his cellar

Gyöngyöspata, Mátra (Hungary)
Here we are again in the village of Gyöngyöspata in the Mátra wine region, and it was a short stroll from one cellar street to another and we reached this haven of quietness where Mátyás Páger, his wife Judit and his brother's family were finishing their picnic outside one of his cellars (this is the one where he readies and labels his bottles). I had met Mátyás a couple months ago in Budapest at Vinopiano, an excellent wine bar with rebel wines. His day job is working in real estate in the big city but his passion is to make wine here in Matra from a small surface mostly located in the prized terroir of Gereg. His farming is fully organic and in the cellar he doesn't use additives, doesn't filter his reds and uses minimum so2 if any.

Mátyás Páger's yearly production is around 6000 bottles, mostly Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) but also Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris, Rajnai rizling (Rhein Riesling). Mátyás also uses this tunnel cellar (which has the typical size of old artisan facilities in this country) to age the wine in bottle before shipping. Even for his small production it's a pretty small storage place (happily, part of the bottles were already shipped and we could walk through the place) and he'll use an additional cellar nearby to complement room. the cellar front shack seems to be standing alone on this picture on left but in fact this cellar street overgrown with trees and greenery is also lined with cellars (some like this one having a small building in front, some not), most of these cellars being unused by villagers.

Balazs Palya (Mátra)

Balázs & Julianna in a parcel

Szűcsi, Mátra (Hungary)
We're here in a village named Szűcsi (pronounce sweetchie or something like that) which sits along a gentle slope surrounded by vineyards (see the pic on the left, best viewpoint on the village for Balázs who stops there when he has something to do in his parcels). The village is located probably much less than 3 kilometers as the crow flies from Gyöngyöspata and that's where Balázs Palya (who has a day job as electrical engineer) and his girlfriend Julianna (or Julcsi) Mészáros (who works in the logistics sector) started a small wine farm in 2019 with little grapes to work with, part from their garden, part given to them by Julianna's family. This is a passion thing for them and their prime intent when they started this was to remain sustainable both in the vineyard and the cellar, just let the wine express itself by its own. They do everything by hand they have no machine whatsoever in the cellar, no pump and they don't add anything in the wine, not even sulfites, and no fining, no filtration. Balázs understands that to make wine, 70 % of the job is in the vineyard and 30 % in the cellar, and if you have a great soil, you'll get a great vine which will yield great grapes, and almost without doing anything after that the wine should be great.

Their production is about only 1500 or 2000 bottles a year from 1,2 hectare of productive grapes, so it's really a very artisanal thing powered by passion and not a business mindset. The yield is like one or 1,5 kilogram of grapes per vine maximum. The vines are 20 years old on average, let aside the older parcel which is 50. For example the Chardonnay was planted in 2002 and the Kékfrankos was planted the year he was born, in 1997.

András Kovács (Mátra)

András & Kinga in front of their cellar

Gyöngyöspata, Mátra (Hungary)
The wine region of Mátra sits on the Mátra hills which, on the way from Budapest when you drive north east to Eger and Tokaj and it grows a majority of white varieties. Mátra is sitting on volcanic slopes as many of these hills were volcanoes I guess (see pic on left, sorry for the pylons in the foreground), and while the wine region keeps a low profile on the international scene (compared to Tokaj and Eger) I was myself suprised to learn that it is the 2nd largest among the 22 wine regions of Hungary (#19 patch on the linked map). The deep history roots of this region shows up in the many cellars found in every village there, it's pretty easy to spot them because in Hungary cellars are often built just outside the villages and away from the farms (closer to the parcels I guess), with a tiny house sitting in front of the opening, this house being used a a chai, to store cellar tools & basket press, and of course gather with friends and family and drink wine....

Like I've seen in the Loire for example, there's a new generation of winemakers in Mátra bringing in their will to make wine for the love of wine and on small surfaces, they're often outsiders as opposed with the mainstream established who try to keep making commercial wine that kind of lost its connection to truth and terroir. People like András Kovács and his wife Kinga Tóth bring indeed a new life in here beginning with demanding requirements in the vineyard management that like elsewhere you don't often find on commercial wineries. András works in IT in Budapest (he's been also one of the wine writers at A Borrajongó, a rich resource on wine including of course Hungarian wine) and Kinga in urban engineering and they spend many weekends here in Mátra.

Capitaine tasting (Paris)

The tasting overflowing in the street

Le Marais, Paris
This is small natural-wine tasting named Pépites that took place in the Marais on a side street (impasse Guéménée near the Place des Vosges) in a restaurant named Capitaine, I would have missed it if not tipped about it by Lexie and later Aaron (these Americans are well connected!). This month of april has been mostly fair and sunny in France and in Paris, with a little breeze that prevented top reach high temperatures. . The terraces of course enjoyed in this spring 2022 a solid rebound after two years of restraints and downright suppression, and parks, gardens & lawns were full as well (pic on left : Place des Vosges nearby).

Tastings have taken the same path, even in small venues, people would elbow their way in cramped spaces without masks and worries. The fee for this professional tasting was a mere 5 €, and guess what you could taste for that humble fee and the great wine people you coud chat with ?? That's one of the reasons Paris still offers opportunities regarding wine that few if any other town can offer.

Domaine Perrault-Jadaud (Loire)

Tanguy Perrault & Anne-Cécile Jadaud

Chançay, Vouvray area (Loire)
Here I am on the outskirts of the charming village of Chançay, sitting against the slopes lining the Loire river valley.
Anne-Cécile and Tanguy who started their domaine in 2009 were initially teachers at the wine school of Amboise (Lycée Viticole) where they met. Longing for the vigneron life instead of merely teaching the skills, they ended making the step, first training their hand on a small parcel (0.5 hectare) all the while keeping their day job at the technical school, then later quitting for good as the domaine grew in surface (it now makes about 8 hectares with 7 hectares in production).

Before that, Anne-Cécile (who is from Tours) had done her training in Montpellier [Languedoc] where she got her oenology degree (DNO) and Tanguy (who is from Brittany) got his viticulture/oenology degree in Bordeaux. Otherwise they had no family in winemaking or growing, so their domaine was created from scratched, beginning with a few rentals.

I asked why they chose this area close to Vouvray (and Amboise as well), Anne-Cécile says that Tanguy had worked at Clos Baudouin in Vouvray where one of the staff there [Jean Penillot, not sure of the spelling] who had himself a few parcels lended him one of his own, that's how he and Anne-Cécile started working near here. They looked for other parcels to rent around, bought a few others when possible and that's how they grew step by step, to one hectare, then 2 hectares, then jumping to 4 hectares and so on.