Paris, 18th arrondissement
Envrac is another concept of wine shop serving food, this venue also sells wine in bulk, either in bottle or in any larger container that you might bring yourself. I knew about another place in Paris with this sort of service, Le Baron Rouge, they also sell in bulk the old way there, but Envrac is a fairly recent place which opened 15 months ago at the corner of rue l'Olive and rue Riquet, in an area of Paris with both islands of gentrified streets and large stretches of neighborhoods populated by non-european migrants. The owner first opened this venue in the covered market nearby (marché couvert de L'Olive)
in 2011 but resettled to an independent street address a couple
years later. This covered market is worth a visit, you find a large choice of cheese, charcuterie, meat and vegetables, plus a couple or more of traiteurs and restaurants. Rain or shine, this is a market you can enjoy in all seasons.
Envrac, or "en vrac", means in bulk in French. While buying wine in bulk is still very commonplace in many wineries in the French provinces, it has mostly disappeared in the cities, but it was also very easy in Paris from what I know until probably the 1950s' or earl 1960s', and if you are familiar with the work of the French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson you may remember this great picture of his featuring a boy coming home proudly with two liter-size bottles of red wine that his father had probably sent him get from the wine shop around the corner. The Vin de table (table wine) was then a simple, light wine (often diluted at 9% or 8% alcohol) which was probably much more drinkable than much of what you find today among those in the lowest price bracket. In the 1970s' and 1980s' bottling became much cheaper and bulk wine as well as returnable bottles (with deposit) vanished : Even everyday table wines were purchased in their own sealed bottles (the quality of what was inside was incindently beginning to change for the worse due to the growing number of winemaking additives on the market, but this is another story...)
The wine shop/bistrot Envrac was created by Thierry Poincin who began his wine adventures by opening a wine shop at the covered market marché des Enfants Rouges in 2000, adding a wine restaurant (L'Estaminet) in this same market. In 2011, he opened an import business in Hong Kong, and in 2011 he opened a first version of Envrac in the covered market of L'Olive (video on the left) a hundred meters away, before moving it to the present location at the corner of rue l'Olive & rue Riquet.
Pouillé, Loir-et-Cher (Loire)
Laurent Saillard is beginning to make his own wines under his own labels, and he turns a new page in his new life as a winegrower, having found recently a cellar to rent to store his own facility.
To rewind a few years earlier, Laurent had discovered a new life in the Loire after years working as a chef in New York and co-managing Ici in Brooklyn with his former wife. His restaurant was already a venue where the farmers' market produces (he was proven visitor of Brooklyn's farmers' markets) paired well with the natural wines he was familiar with, and when he settled in the Loire to work with Noella Morantin, there was a continuum in the philosophy, just that this time he was on the other side of the production line, working on the vineyard for Noella and taking care of the vines & grapes so that they could yield these real wines he loved. Learning the wine farm job the hard way, beginning with the vineyatd tasks
(the organic way), he learned all the while the winemaking and tried his hand one day with a batch of grapes that
Noella gave him so that he could make a barrel of wine.
When Noella bought a few hectares of vineyards from Junko Arai recently, she transferred part of the vineyards that she rented from Clos Roche Blanche to Laurent, so that he could have his own rented parcels to make his wine. He keeps working all the while for Noella Morantin and uses his weekends to tend his own surface. This makes a pretty tight working week but many artisan wineries have started this way.
When I showed up that day, Laurent and Noella helped by Juliette and Julien were busy bottling a vat of Gamay, and I was greeted like usual by Panache (pic on left, shot that day), an authentic Newyorker (actually born in 2007 in Connecticut) who seems to have become a successful transplant on the southern bank of the Cher river. This dog is very affectionate and loves also the outdoor, in short an excellent and silent companion for a winegrower.
Greniers Saint Jean, Angers (Loire)
The Salon des Vins de Loire in the outskirts of Angers is a very large event centered around the many wines produced in the Loire region, but this yearly event is also the occasion for smaller simultaneous tasting events scheduled in roughly the same time frame, and where the focus is more on organic/biodynamic, natural wines from domaines of all the wine regions and even from abroad. This particular wine fair took place
downtown Angers in what is called the Greniers Saint Jean, a historic building
built circa 1188 that looks much like a church but was actually originally a food-storage building for the hospital of Angers. It was home that day for another healthy food that heals many ailments : real wine. There was another resourceful tasting event that weekend, Les Vins Anonymes, which I attended last year and it takes place in a real church (actually decommissioned).
This tasting was organized by Nicolas Joly's Winegrowers group Renaissance des Appellations and many of the participâting domaines are biodynamic. The biodynamic farming rules have beyond the farming side very strict rules in terms of additives use and other winemaking tricks, and you can be reasonably pretty sure that these wineries don't fool you about the way they make their wines That could be a simple and common-sense reason to be comfortable with biodynamic wines in the first place. Looking at the rules for winemaking on this Demeter-USA document (page 38 to 42) makes you understand why I'm myself more comfortable when I deal with biodynamic-certified wines. Among many other requirements : handpicking preferred, limitations to SO2 use, no pasteurization, no concentration of must, yeast nutrients approved in case-per-case, acid and sugar ajustment not permitted, All other processing additives are not permitted : enzymes, tannin, casein, silica dioxide, isinglass,
blood, gelatin, gum arabic, carbon, copper sulfate, etc.. This by the way sheds light indirectly on what you get behind the curtains in the mainstream wineries.
Look at the list of 155 domaines who take part to this Grenier-Saint-Jean tasting, domaines from all over France plus a few from Spain, Italy and Austria. It may be a side tasting event compared to the Salon des Vins de Loire but this place was thick with talent and hard-working growers. You can't in my view taste them all in a single day, and even in two days. In addition to gathering so many top winemakers, this tasting event was very affordable : 5 € for professionals with an invitation and 20 € for the others, and the pours were generally very generous.
Le Chateaubriand, 11th arrondissement
The wines of Georgia are having their show again in Paris, first here in Chateaubriand, the wine-wise restaurant on Avenue Parmentier in the 11th, then in several other wine events including in the ones popping up around the Loire Wines Fair in Angers,
namely Les Pénitentes in Angers and La Dive Bouteille in
Saumur. That's why Angers is a good wine destination at this time of the year, because in addition to the wines of the Loire region, you can taste the wines from many other regions and meet these winemakers who share the passion for real wines.
This event was organized by Thierry Puzelat and the owners of Chateaubriand, Thierry Puzelat playing an important role in the awakening of the European public to these wines of Georgia and to their antique winemaking techniques. This free tasting event took place on a monday like most professional tasting events, it lasted from 10am to 6pm and featured the wines of 10 winegrowers from Georgia, many of them being present in person :
Ramaz Nikoladze, John Wurdeman, Lago Bitarishvili, Nika Bakhia, Kakhaber Berishvili, Zurab Topuridze,Nikoloz Antadze, Malkhaz Jakeli, Jani Okruashvili and temuri Dakishvili. I managed to get there after work like last year and taste a few wines before they packed up at about 6:40.
At one point at the end of the event, Béatrice of Chateaubriand and John Wurdeman (of Pheasant's Tears) cross-drinked Georgian wine using drinking horns like people used to do in Georgia in the past.
Not a typo, this is about testing, not only tasting
France and Paris may look late on the craft-beer issue compared to the United States but some people are discreetly working on it, and there has been here in the recent years actually a burgeoning number of new artisan breweries all over the country, which could help us rub elbows with older members of the club on the continent, like Germany and Belgium
(still way ahead for sure).
France had actually in the past a strong local-beer sector but I guess that the same ill-fated economic choices that dismantled our Mittelstand industry after WW2 also threw out the small breweries with the bathwater, leaving us in the 1970s' and 1980s' with only a handful of industrial breweries, which paved the way later for Heineken's inroad in this desertified beer landscape.
When you intend to create a beer, the flavor-testing stage is very important, it usually involves peers and associates or friends who are called for advice and opinions. I'm new to it and it looks like tasting but it is more like testing because you'll be finetuning the aromatic edge and other parameters that will make your beer stand out through a unique recipe.
Pierre Guigui who is the Wine Man at Gault & Millau and heads the Concours Amphore (an international competition for organic wines) is currently in the process of making a beer of his own. This is still the experimental stage of the project and Pierre and his wife Laurence wanted us to taste 5 versions of their beer.
Charline, the cheesemaker, showing her Tomme cheese
WineTerroirs isn't converting to cheese but wines are asleep in winter...
Saint Leger Vauban, Burgundy
The Abbaye de la Pierre Qui Vire is a Benedictine monastery nestled in a corner of the thickly-wooded Morvan hills in central Burgundy. It was founded in 1850 in a beautifully- remote area with lots of forests and pastures. The abbey itself is opened to visitors year around except
january, and some people use the accommodation wing
of the monastery for a retreat.
In 1938 a neighboring farm was purchased by the abbey in order to provide work and revenues to the monks. In 1950 the farm worked closely with the INRA, the then-recently-created French research body dealing with agro sciences. This collaboration led to massive use of chemical fertilizers to compensate with the poor local soils of the area, and in 1969 the monks overlooking the farming decided to stop working with the INRA and turn the farm organic, which was not common or trendy at the time. Starting in 1980 the farm specialized into cheese, using the farm's cows for the milk and later in 1994 added a goat cheese wing, also sourcing the milk from the goats of the farm. The name of this abbey has thus been now associated with their raw-milk cheese, which is very different in its texture and qualities from the époisses, it doesn't run for example and stays firm. This cheese is not an AOC but it has a similar status in the mind of cheese lovers, it is a registered brand and holds quality standards that can largely compete with AOCs.
The road to the abbey, while much more comfortable than when this monastery was built in the mid 19th century, has still this feel of remoteness and forest immersion that was probably dear to the founders.
Pic on left : Philippe de L'Escalier
An organic winegrower dragged to the court february 24th for refusing to spray his parcels
Emmanuel Giboulot, a biodynamic winegrower in Burgundy made the headlines (here Decanter) in the wine media a few weeks ago after he was notified by the French administration for refusing to use insecticides preventively to treat his vineyard against the cicadelle (scaphoideus titanus), an insect which is the vector of the flavescence dorée, a dangerous vine disease. I called Emmannuel on january 8th to have his last news and feelings about the issue.
He says that there was no documented case of flavescence dorée on his vineyard or in any vineyard in the vicinity but the administration had given orders (décrets) to the growers to spray their vineyards, and this in two contiguous départements, the Saône et Loire and the Côte d'Or.
The authorities, who visited 41 wineries in the Côte d'Or in mid-2013 found only one winery without proof of purchase of the insecticide, it was Emmannuel Giboulot's. He could have done like a few winegrowers, buy the product, keep the receipt and not use it in his vineyard and he wouldn't have had then any problem with the law enforcement, but he chose to be frank and show his colors, and when the administration guys showed up he said he didn't want to spray this insecticide. Even if certain products are organic-farming compliant, their use was also harmful to a whole range of beneficent organisms. He was initially summoned to the court in november, but couldn't come, then he was summoned again to present himself at the court on december 24th but his case was postponed until february 24. He risks a fine of 30 000 € and
a 6-month jail term for his refusal, which he justifies by the fact that the spraying is unnecessary (there was not a single case of flavescence dorée in the Côte D'Or in the spring of 2013) and would weaken the ecosystem of his vineyard without reason as no case of flavescence dorés has been observed in or near his parcels. The closest known case of flavescence dorée happened in Plottes (départyement of Saône-et-Loire) which is located 77 km from Beaune. Plus this is completely alien to the official posturing of the authorities to encourage a diminution of the insecticide sprayings. Emmannuel Giboulot received support in his ordeal from different groups like Biodivin, Renaissance des Appellations, Biodynamic farmers groups, but the issue is touchy because some groups reveive subsidies from the state or the regional administration and they had to be careful in their support.
Emmanuel Giboulot says that the spraying against cicadelles, the vector insect of the disease aims to limit the movements of this vector, but 75 % of the success of the fight against Flavescence dorée lies in the identification of the affected vines and the removal of those vines; then if a treatment is decided it has to be in an area in the immediate proximity of this vineyard. In the present case, he says, the SRAL, a state administration dealing with agriculture and forestry seems to be pushing for heavy-handed approach without a deep understanding and distance for handling the problem. Last year they ordered three compulsory sprayings in the 3 village areas around Plottes and this year they asked to the whole Saône-et-Loire département and the whole Côte d'Or to spray, even though this latter départementhadn't a single documented rcase of flavescence dorée.
Another thing is that the spraying effect is very limited, there should be 3 to be sure if you really wanted to "do the job"; Then these sprayings are decimating the Typhlodromus specy (or predatory mites) for example, which are keeping the biological balance in the vineyard and preventing pests from expanding. Emmannuel Giboulot says that the disease has less room and opportunity to move in an environment with diversity and multiple life. He says that he knows about wineries that had used the compulsory insecticide and as a result, were obliged to add two anti-acaricide sprayings because the natural predators had been largely erased and opened the door to harmful pests.
Read also this article [in French] about the collateral casualties caused by this treatment on the typhlodromus population.
Here comes the New Year, a time of unrestrained excesses worldwide and I thought it might be well timed to have a visual reminder of the dangers we face when we raise our glass or grab a bottle. These posters remind us also of the Soviet Union's and Russia's long-running struggle with a national plague, the chronic drunkenness among a sizeable part of its male population. This fight took many forms along the 20th century including a total prohibition try during the Gorbatchev years, and state-employed artists provided dozens of images to move workers away from disastrous overdrinking habits.
This problem never really went away and a couple years ago, a new Russian law restricted the sales of alcohol after certain hours, thus closing off the access to the wine and vodka aisles in supermarkets. The St Petersburg government recently added amendments to widen the hours during which alcohol couldn't be purchased.
With the growing prosperity and travel capacity, airlines are also faced with an increasing number of unruly passengers getting into brawls during flights after excessive drinking, and the authorities consider forbidding in-flight booze sales. I noticed myself when I flew on Aeroflot earlier this year that the flight attendants didn't offer vodka anymore, you had to pay for it. Russia is not Russia anymore...
Fromagerie des Marronniers, Origny sur Seine, Chatillonnais (Burgundy)
Contrary to the commonly accepted thinking, the Epoisses cheese can be made outside the village of Epoisses, like here for the Fromagerie des Marronniers which is located in Origny, 50 km from its birth place. The namesake cheese was originally born thanks to Cistercian monks who designed the recipe in the 16th century, afterwards this washed rind cheese was made in
countless farms of this region, most of the time by women, the region being the area around Epoisses in northern Burgundy.
Before the revolution, it even became one of the favorite cheeses found at the court in Versailles. The Epoisses cheese had probably its apogy in the 19th century, even peaking in the early 20th before WW1. After then, as the women had to replace the fallen husbands and sons to work in the farm, they had less time to spend for cheese making. Later, another major blow was the setting up of compulsory norms for the cheese-making rooms and buildings.
The Chatillonnais region where this Epoisses cheese farm is located is a little-known part of Burgundy, it is divided between the plateau part with lots of agriculture and the valley side through which the still-very-small river Seine flows (pictured on right close to the cheese facility at Aisey-sur-Seine) and where you have lots of woods and pastures (video). Otherwise the Epoisses cheese appellation area covers 2/3 of the Côte d'Or département plus 3 cantons in the Yonne département and 2 in the Haute Marne. This means there could be more cheese farms or dairies making this cheese.
Origny is a small village at some distance from the main road. When you arrive at the edge of the village there are a couple of nice medieval towers on the left, these are remains from a 14th-century castle (more pics on this page).
Passage des Panoramas, 2nd arrondissement (Paris)
Coinstot Vino is a resourceful venue located in the heart of the right bank. It has certainly become very fast since its opening in 2010 a reference on the wine scene here, making people forget that it's so young. This is also a wine shop with a large portfolio of uncorrected wines (if only with a bit of SO2).
There's something I like on the Grands Boulevards, especially the part between République and end of the Bd des Italiens. It may have to do with some reminiscence of the flamboyant Napoleon era when this area of Paris was so wildly feisty and sinful, with the emerging bourgeoisie discovering without restraint all the entertainment and consumering culture. This stretch of "the Boulevards" are certainly
today the ghost of what it has been then, but I don't know, you still feel I-don't-know-what behind the patina, an excitement for fun and going out which overflows on the neighboring streets.
There's something more in this part of Paris that you can't miss, the passages and galeries, actually covered passages that were probably along the first shopping arcades of the modern history, places where women of the 19th-century bourgeoisie could go spend their money, rain or shine, under the natural light, and in the evening under the lighting of sophisticated gas lamps. You can immerse yourself back in the passage des Panoramas in 1880 by reading an excerpt in English) from Emile Zola's Nana, a novel describing the rapid social ascension of an energetic young prostitute nicknamed Nana.
Most of the remaining passages (25 out of a hundred maybe, originally) happen to be located in this precise area of Paris, and they're among the hidden gems of Paris. Some walking tours offer to show them for a fee, but all you need, to locate them, is choose a passage from this list, paste the exact address of one extremity of a given passage in Google maps and print the map. Today, we'll go to Coinstot Vino at the last end of the Passage des Panoramas, and the door to this passage is 11 Bd Montmartre.
On the video on the left you'll follow more or less the walk from one of the exits of the Metro (Grands Boulevards station) to the end of the passage des Panoramas where you'll stumble on Coinstot Vino. Once inside the passage, you'll pass another reference in terms of wine restaurants, Racines.