Racines. Pierre Jancou Pouring a Claude Courtois to CésarPassage des Panoramas, Paris
Racines is a natural-wine bar

which is located in one of the remaining Napoleonian shopping arcades of Paris. These arcades were some sort of
early shopping malls and allowed the Parisians of the Napoleon era to do window shopping and stroll in a clean, well-lit and heated street (in winter) without being bothered by the rain and the horse carts. There are quite a number of these "passages" and "galeries" in Paris and most of them are located around the Palais Royal and the Grands Boulevards on the right bank. See
this map (mouse over for names and click) for their location and details The Passage des Panoramas was built in 1799 and it was probably the very first covered arcade in Paris. Emile Zola writes at length about the passage in his novel
Nana, which features an intriguing and energetic young Parisian prostitute. Read the
chapter 7 of Nana (in English), where you'll have a taste of the sexual freedom of a high-class prostitute under Napoleon III and glimpses of this lively shopping arcade in an era that historians deem as having known "the most rapid economic and social change in French history".
The wine bar looks like it has always been around, it melts perfectly into this bustling neighborhood and in this arcade lined with traditional local stores. The shop facing Racines, at N°57 of the passage, is where the famed "chocolatier Marquis" stood in the 19th century. Zola's Nana loved this "perfume of vanilla emanating from a chocolate dealer's basement". It still has some of its period fixtures and it is also really worth a look, even if you didn't read Nana.
Although these Napoleonian covered arcades have begun to come to light these last few years, they are mostly still largely ignored by mass tourism (we wouldn't complain about that) and out-of-town visitors need to do some research to reach these havens of authentic local life. At least with Racines, wine lovers will have a chance to be introduced to one of these architectural gems in addition to sipping some of the best natural wines around.
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